I’m coming to the end of my early fall cauliflower crop, six lovely heads that have matured from seeds I started in early June. I wrapped the leaves around the just-forming heads in mid-August, and, protected this way, beautiful full cauliflowers formed a month later.
The last time I wrote about cauliflower was early summer, 2012 when I explained how I coddle along this challenging-to-grow vegetable and offered my favorite way to cook cauliflower: simply roast it. Roasting is still my favorite way to prepare cauliflower because the caramelizing that happens as cauliflower roasts in olive oil brings out its earthy but delicate sweetness.
So of course I had to roast the first few heads I harvested. For a party, I followed my go-to recipe, slicing large pieces into ¼ inch wide fans, arranging them on a sheet pan, brushing them with olive oil, sprinkling on salt and pepper and roasting them at 375 until they were soft and caramelized.
With six heads of cauliflower, though, I decided to branch out a little bit, looking for recipes that still called for roasting but added other flavors. I should have done this branching out years ago because I found some great recipes. In Yotam Ottolenghi’s 2014 cookbook Plenty More he offers a roasted cauliflower, grape and cheddar salad that totally suits this fall season. I was even able to use the Canadice grapes ripening on our arbor. The raisins marinated in the vinaigrette complement the fresh grapes and the crumbled bits of Cheddar cheese and the chopped hazelnuts add richness. Best of all, though, the flavor of roasted cauliflower comes through.
Roasted cauliflower, grape and cheddar salad
1 large head cauliflower broken into bite sized florets
6 tablespoons sunflower or other light oil
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon honey
1/4 cup raisins
1/3 cup hazelnuts, toasted and roughly crushed
2/3 cup seedless red grapes, halved
3 oz aged Cheddar cheese, coarsely crumbled
2/3 cup flat leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
salt and black pepper
Preheat oven to 425°
Toss the cauliflower florets with half of the oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Spread out on a baking sheet and roast for 20-30 minutes, stirring once or twice, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool.
To make the dressing, whisk together the remaining 3 tablespoons oil with the vinegar, mustard, honey and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add the raisins and let them marinade for at least 10 minutes.
Just before serving, transfer the cauliflower to a large bowl and add the hazelnuts, grapes, Cheddar and parsley. Pour the raisins and dressing over the top, toss together, transfer to a large platter, and serve.
Inspired by the success of this move from plain roasted cauliflower to other flavors, I was ready to take on a Food 52 recipe that appeared in my email last week. Titled Roasted, Spiced, Almond-y Cauliflower, it’s a slightly modified recipe from Melissa Clark, one of my favorite cookbook authors.
Nicholas Day, creator of this version, introduced the recipe as: lightly adapted from Melissa Clark’s In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite. Her version has whole cumin, coriander and brown mustard seeds. It’s a spice mixture that’s very adaptable, obviously; my current version is below. Also, if you don’t have sliced almonds, substitute some chopped almonds or cashews.
1 large cauliflower, cut into inch-sized florets
1/2teaspoon coriander seed
1/2teaspoon ground cumin
1/2teaspoon ground cinammon
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2teaspoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons sliced almonds
Preheat the oven to 425° F. With a mortar and pestle, or the flat side of a chef’s knife, lightly crush the coriander seeds. Add the crushed seeds to a bowl along with the cumin, cinnamon, olive oil, and salt.
Scatter the cauliflower florets over a rimmed baking sheet, then toss them with the oil-and-spice mixture. Roast for 15 minutes, then stir and roast for 10 more minutes. Sprinkle on the almonds and roast for another 5 to 10 minutes, or until the cauliflower and the almonds are nicely browned. Serve hot, warm, or cold.
This combination of cauliflower, spices and nuts makes a great side dish warm or cold. I also used it hot the other night as part of a pasta sauce, adding grapes and hazelnuts in a nod to Ottolenghi and thinly slicing a bunch of succulent fall arugula leaves and tossing it in to the hot pasta and spicy cauliflower so it wilted slightly. With grated pecorino cheese, this pasta with cauliflower made a hearty fall dinner.
I have one more cauliflower left in the kitchen garden. I’ll need to decide soon how to prepare it.
These all sound delicious! For your last head, I recommend the New York Times cauliflower, pasta and blue cheese recipe.
Thanks for your response and the great recipe suggestion! Sounds like a wonderful flavor combination. Debby
Debbie, I haven’t written you for a while to tell you how much I enjoy your gorgeous garden and recipe posts. Truly, this one is magnificent! I can’t grow cauliflower due to the size of our small garden… And the farm garden has developed club root. 😦 But, wow, I think I will go to Horse Drawn and buy some and follow your recipes. All best to you & Scott, Kip
Thanks for your response Kip. Always good to hear from you.
Happy Fall! Debby
Beautiful cauliflower, Debbie!! Have shied away from growing cauliflower but enjoy eating them and will consult your 2012 blog for coddling instructions.
A quick recipe for nice cauliflower heads is what we call “Denticle Salad”: Trim small florets (molar tooth size) from a raw or lightly steamed cauliflower. Add your favorite store-bought or home-made Ranch dressing +/- additional chives or other herbs. Toss & serve. Left-over stems can be steamed longer and then mashed or riced for another meal.
Thanks for your reply Heike and for the recipe. Cauliflower is so versatile.
I hope the 2012 post on cauliflower is helpful.
I enjoyed this post very much and plan to try the recipes. I like Ottolenghi but find his recipes call for many ingredients I donât normally have on hand. The one you give seems to use ingredients that I have or can easily obtain.
Iâm attaching one of my favorite cauliflower recipesâa spread that I had at a bar on Capitol Hill (Seattle). I was delighted when the recipe was published in the Seattle Times.
Thanks for your response Mysti. The recipe you mention didn’t come through so perhaps you can send it directly to my email.
Looking forward to trying it! Debby