Two recipe titles that caught my eye recently were Caramelized Cabbage and Walnut Pasta and Creamy Butternut Squash Pasta with Sage and Walnuts. Two favorite winter vegetable plus walnuts? Yes! Some January King cabbages were still thriving in the winter kitchen garden and a few of the many butternut squash I grew last summer were still left in the storage vegetable closet, so I tried both recipes. Each is even better than it sounds.
Caramelized Cabbage and Walnut Pasta
The introduction to this recipe says that the cabbage “becomes jammy and sweet when cooked with aromatic leeks and garlic for 15 minutes…Cumin seeds add just the right amount of earthiness along with a subtle citrus tone…The walnuts balance out the sweetness of the cabbage and leeks and introduce a slight bitterness and crunch.” All true. I made a half batch for the two of us. There could have been some great leftovers even from this half batch if we hadn’t simply eaten it all because it tasted so good.
- ¼ cup olive oil
- 3 tablespoon unsalted butter
- 2 teaspoon cumin seeds
- 2 leeks, white and tender green parts, thinly sliced into rings (yellow onion would work too)
- 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
- 2 pounds finely sliced green cabbage
- Kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
- 1 pound spaghetti or other long pasta
- 4 ounces pecorino cheese, grated, plus more for serving
- 2 to 3 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
- 3 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice (from 1 large lemon)
- 1 to 1½ cups toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
- Handful of chopped chives (optional)
- Heat a large Dutch oven or pot over medium. Add the olive oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add cumin seeds and bloom for 15 seconds, then add the leeks, garlic, cabbage and 2 teaspoons salt, and stir for 3 to 4 minutes until wilted. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low and cook for 10 minutes without stirring. Check every few minutes to make sure the bottom is not burning. If needed, give it a stir.
- After 10 minutes, remove the lid from the cabbage and stir. Cover and cook for another 4 to 5 minutes, until it is super sweet and tender. Taste and season with kosher salt.
- Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook according to package instructions. When the pasta is ready, do not drain, but use tongs to drag the pasta out of its cooking water and straight into the pot with the cabbage. Add about 1 cup of pasta cooking water, along with the pecorino and the black pepper. Toss well to combine.
- Add lemon juice. Taste, adjust seasonings with more salt, pepper or lemon if needed. To serve, scatter with walnuts and finish with more pecorino and chopped chives if using.
Creamy Butternut Squash Pasta with Sage and Walnuts
The introductory summary of this recipe says: “butternut squash gets roasted, puréed, then tossed with Parmesan to make this nutty, creamy pasta sauce. Each serving is topped with crispy fried sage leaves, a hint of lemon zest, and toasted walnuts, adding a crunchy contrast to the squash.”
The sauce really is creamy and the crispy sage, lemon zest and toasty walnuts are perfect contrasts. I made a full batch and saved half to serve as a side dish the next day. The leftover half would also have been delicious thinned out with broth and served as a soup.
- 2 ½ pounds butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into 3/4-inch pieces
- 2 garlic cloves
- 5 tablespoons olive oil
- Kosher salt and black pepper
- ¾ packed cup fresh sage leaves
- ¾ cup chopped walnuts
- 1 lemon, zested (about 1 tablespoon)
- 1 cup low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock, plus more as needed
- 1 pound short pasta, such as gemelli, casarecce or penne
- ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
- Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the squash and garlic on a sheet pan. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Toss well and roast until the squash is very tender, 30 to 35 minutes, tossing twice throughout. While the squash roasts, bring a large pot of water to boil.
- Meanwhile, in a large (12-inch) skillet, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium. When the oil is hot, add the sage and cook, tossing often, until the leaves begin to crisp, about 1 minute. Add the walnuts and a generous sprinkle of salt and cook, tossing often, until the sage leaves are lightly browned and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sage and nuts to a paper towel-lined plate and wipe out the skillet. Let the mixture drain for 1 minute, then add it to a small bowl with the lemon zest; toss lightly and set aside.
- Working in batches if necessary, transfer the roasted squash and garlic to a blender or food processor, along with 1 cup stock, and blend until smooth and thick. The consistency should be somewhere between a purée and a thick soup. Add more stock as needed, if it seems too thick.
- Transfer the puréed squash to the reserved skillet and keep warm over very low heat. Meanwhile, add the pasta to the boiling water, along with 1 tablespoon salt, and cook until al dente. Just before draining, ladle 1/2 cup pasta water into a measuring cup and set aside.
- Drain the pasta and add it to the sauce. Toss to coat the pasta evenly, then, off the heat, add the 1/2 cup Parmesan and toss until the cheese is incorporated. Add a few tablespoons of the reserved pasta water if the sauce seems too thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
- Divide the pasta among shallow bowls and sprinkle the sage, walnut and lemon zest mixture on top, and serve with extra Parmesan on the side.
I have many other favorite ways to prepare cabbage and winter squash. There’s cabbage and collards, cabbage slaw with farro, cabbage and mushroom galette and cabbage roasted with tarragon and pecorino. For squash, there’s roasted butternut squash with cilantro pesto and squash and poblano tart. I plan to keep the new pasta recipes at the top of this list as we work our way through the last of the winter cabbage and squash.